respray cost

Sheaf · Post by **Sheaf** » Thu Jul 15, 2004 7:19 am

Hi, just a quick question

How much should it cost for a spoiler (coupe) to be stripped and resprayed in nightfire red? I'm searching for one in the correct colour but the ones on ebay seem to be every colour but nightfire.

Alex

_tomcat_ · Post by **_tomcat_** » Thu Jul 15, 2004 7:40 am

well its gonna cost me Â£60 to get my roof spoiler done not sure on the boot one.

cheers aj

baysthebest · Post by **baysthebest** » Thu Jul 15, 2004 7:52 am

Hiya

when i got my rear number plate stripped down and re sprayed it cost me 70 pounds, the bloke dint charge any VAT though

Id imagine it would cost between 60 and 90 pounds

Cheers

matt

Craig and Karen · Post by **Craig and Karen** » Thu Jul 15, 2004 9:21 am

We paid Â£150 for our spoiler to be sanded down,sprayed and fitted

Steve220 · Post by **Steve220** » Thu Jul 15, 2004 12:48 pm

i paid Â£40 for my rear bumper to be sprayed up

simonptomcat · Post by **simonptomcat** » Thu Jul 15, 2004 12:50 pm

_tomcat_ wrote:well its gonna cost me Â£60 to get my roof spoiler done

Fancy selling it! Will save ya money on painting costs! :wink:

Hammie · Post by **Hammie** » Thu Jul 15, 2004 12:50 pm

where was that at steve?

have you not looked into doing it yourself m8?

Matt

Steve220 · Post by **Steve220** » Thu Jul 15, 2004 1:16 pm

we've got a spray gun at work and a mini compressor, i'm tempted to ask my boss if i can borrow it and go mad one weekend with a door or something from the scrappy. knowing me, i'd bugger it up :cry:

I got it done by a mate of mine. i want my front bumper doing next to match the rest of the car.

Martin · Post by **Martin** » Thu Jul 15, 2004 1:21 pm

Give me Â£50 and I can change the colour of the spoiler, no problem

I am in Hants as well so its theasable :p

Boycie

Hammie · Post by **Hammie** » Thu Jul 15, 2004 1:21 pm

i've got a compressor and spray gun is it easy to do? as i've got a spoiler/front + rear bumper/rubbing strips to do!

matt

Martin · Post by **Martin** » Thu Jul 15, 2004 1:23 pm

If you can make a reasonable job with tinnies, using a spray gun should not be too hard

Hammie · Post by **Hammie** » Thu Jul 15, 2004 1:46 pm

any guides/tutorials around for it?

Matt

radddogg · Post by **radddogg** » Thu Jul 15, 2004 1:51 pm

baysthebest wrote:when i got my rear number plate stripped down and re sprayed it cost me 70 pounds

How do you read the VRM now?

MGTurbo · Post by **MGTurbo** » Thu Jul 15, 2004 1:56 pm

Steve220 wrote:i paid Â£40 for my rear bumper to be sprayed up

That's fine if you have a mate who does you a favour...

A spoiler would vary depending on the prep, if its a straight colour change with no need to fill and prime, then about Â£40 sounds right. Bodyshops will charge alot more. Paint aint cheap, proper PPG base costs Â£20 + vat for 1/4 of a litre!

Gareth

_tomcat_ · Post by **_tomcat_** » Thu Jul 15, 2004 4:45 pm

simonptomcat wrote:
_tomcat_ wrote:well its gonna cost me Â£60 to get my roof spoiler done

Fancy selling it! Will save ya money on painting costs!

sorry mate keeping it

its not original one

but will do lol

cheers aj

baysthebest · Post by **baysthebest** » Thu Jul 15, 2004 4:57 pm

sorry, i meant rear number plate surround

Matt

radddogg · Post by **radddogg** » Thu Jul 15, 2004 5:59 pm

baysthebest wrote:sorry, i meant rear number plate surround

Matt

I know matey, just being playfully jocular :wink:

Sheaf · Post by **Sheaf** » Thu Jul 15, 2004 10:43 pm

So is it possible to make a decent job if it with tins or is it not even worth trying?

I wouldn't really want to bother trying if it's just going to look cack, it would just make it more trouble to put right.

Hopefully I'll find one in nightfire.

Martin, do you have respray equipment then, or just handy with tins?

Alex

MGTurbo · Post by **MGTurbo** » Thu Jul 15, 2004 10:46 pm

To get an O.E finish you need the proper equipment and materials. Aerosol paint is designed to be quick drying but it is not durable. So it pays not to skimp if you want it to last.

Gareth

jay.dee · Post by **jay.dee** » Thu Jul 15, 2004 11:00 pm

A mate coupla weeks ago had his coupe spoiler done in BRG (was orig a different colour) by a paint shop that already had the paint for Â£100 - looks a great job as well, they even sealed the joint between the spoiler and the boot

steve-o · Post by **steve-o** » Fri Jul 16, 2004 12:59 pm

Well, all I can say is I've been spraying stuff up with rattle cans for years and generally get as good as or even better finish than taking it to a body shop who would charge me 10 times the cost of a couple of rattle cans!!! I've sprayed entire wings, bumpers and even body kits and got results as good as most body shops!!!

There is a nack to getting a good finish on a rattle can, and generally it does take good prep and after prep to get the finish the same as a pro job. But it can be done and is easy, just needs time.

As for durability, I have never had a rattle can job that has not been as durable as any other paint job. Just make sure you use a good paint mixer who can get a good match and sells qualiity paint, dont use halfords rubbish! The paint does stay softer for longer, but given a few weeks and its as durable as any other paint job I've found.

I got a spoiler for my 216 coupe a few months back of a bloke on here for Â£30, cost me a further Â£15 to spray it up myself and the finish is just as good as any body shop! I've had spoilers done at local body shops, last one cost me Â£70, and all he did was rub it down, apply colour and laquer! He didnt even fit it!!!

With rattle cans, ensure you've rubbed it down well. If spraying on top of a previous colour, just dull the paint with a fine grade wet and dry and fill any imperfections with filler. No need for any priming (except if filling), spray straight on top. Only prime if going over filler or over original material/metal.

Some 2 pac solid colours may require base coats as base is thicker than 2 pac and you get a deeper colour (2 pac may take many coats to build up colour otherwise), apply thin coats and allow to harden over night and then rub down (softly) with fine grade wet and dry (wet) then for solid colours apply a few 2 pac top coats generously but not too much to run and allow to harden over night. Coats need to be generous enough to allow the laquer in the paint to complete the finish, too thin and its hard to shine it up after.

For metallics, you generally dont need base, so just spray the colour on, wait to harden, rub down, then apply laquer next day. No need for laquer on 2 pac solids, but is optional if you cant get the desired finish with 2 pac alone.

Leave the work to harden totally for a few days, get some rubbing compound and mix it with some polish, polish the entire spoiler (dont believe mumbo jumbo about not polishing within 2 weeks of spraying!) The reason for this is the atomiser on a rattle can isnt fine enough to make a perfect finish and leaves the surface " bobbly" in comparison to pro jobs, the compound takes this away and leaves the surface mirror smooth. You can rub down with fine wet and dry (wet) and then poilish up with compound and polish, but generally, the compound alone is enough with the polish.

Its easy, cheap and does the job as well as any body shop, just takes time and patience. No rushing!!!

The spoiler itself is a piece of cake to fit, took me and my pops an hour to fit on a sunday afternoon. A few holes and bolts, a good eye and some Sicaflex and job done!

Might take longer, but to me, I save a load of cash doing spray jobs myself and doing it myself is most of the fun! Great sense of achievement!

Just my thoughts and experiences! (Sorry to babble on!!!)

Steve.

MGTurbo · Post by **MGTurbo** » Fri Jul 16, 2004 3:37 pm

As for durability, I have never had a rattle can job that has not been as durable as any other paint job. Just make sure you use a good paint mixer who can get a good match and sells qualiity paint, dont use halfords rubbish! The paint does stay softer for longer, but given a few weeks and its as durable as any other paint job I've found.

Ok so what happens when petrol is spilt on your nice single pack acrylic aerosol paint? Thats right, it cracks. Bird logger will mark it easily. It's not as chip resistant. Unless you keep the paint well waxed, 1-pack clearcoat can actually lose its shine. It's only suitable to touch up areas.

Some 2 pac solid colours may require base coats as base is thicker than 2 pac and you get a deeper colour (2 pac may take many coats to build up colour otherwise),

Ok you have obviously not used two-pack that much then? Solid two pack is just that, its not a base, its a solid. Therefore it shines straight from the gun, no laquer required.
Spray as you would a clear over base, except not so much, 3 coats of 2-pack solid is ample, the paint build is much thicker than you would imagine.

apply thin coats and allow to harden over night and then rub down (softly) with fine grade wet and dry (wet) then for solid colours apply a few 2 pac top coats generously but not too much to run and allow to harden over night. Coats need to be generous enough to allow the laquer in the paint to complete the finish, too thin and its hard to shine it up after.

You cannot get two-pack in a aerosol. It's also much harder to compound than single pack once hardened.

With single pack you do not aim for the overall finish, you build up enough depth wich can then be cut back for a mirror shine. 1-pack is very thin and runs very easily if you dont know how to use it.

For metallics, you generally dont need base, so just spray the colour on, wait to harden, rub down, then apply laquer next day. No need for laquer on 2 pac solids, but is optional if you cant get the desired finish with 2 pac alone.

Ok your really not making any sense now. Metallics are almost always clear over base except for with certain brands where you can add an activator to it, which will then allow the paint to dry to a shine. It cannot be compounded afterwards because you'll just swirl the pigment around...
Correct about 2-pack solids not needing a laquer, thats why its a solid paint...

Leave the work to harden totally for a few days, get some rubbing compound and mix it with some polish, polish the entire spoiler (dont believe mumbo jumbo about not polishing within 2 weeks of spraying!) The reason for this is the atomiser on a rattle can isnt fine enough to make a perfect finish and leaves the surface " bobbly" in comparison to pro jobs, the compound takes this away and leaves the surface mirror smooth. You can rub down with fine wet and dry (wet) and then poilish up with compound and polish, but generally, the compound alone is enough with the polish.

You can polish 1-pack within an hour of spraying it! The reason aerosols do not give a good finish i because 1. the type of paint in the can and 2. there isnt enough propellant to give an even pressure.

Sorry to go on but i do this for a living, travelled 8000 miles to teach someone how to do it, and am pretty up on what does and doesnt work.

Gareth

steve-o · Post by **steve-o** » Sun Jul 18, 2004 6:41 pm

lol

Come on pal lighten up!!!

Someone asks for opinions and thats what they get!!! I dont profess to know everything there is to know about spraying, these are just my experiences!!! Only thing I said to disagree with you is that I havent found 2 pac aerosol that isnt as durable as any other pro paint job!!! The rest of the stuff is the methods "I have found" to be good for me, and if it isnt 2 pac and you cant get 2 pac in aerosol, then the guy I get it from has been lieing to everyone he sells it to for years!!!

Like I said, these are "my" experiences and hence the advise I offered, you obviously know better, so you can offer your own advise, but if you wanna pick on everything I said and start fights, I suggest you come and knock on my door and show me how much abuse you wanna speel at me to my face!

You can offer advise and everyone can give their own judgment and experiences, you dont, however, have to be a complete self rightious cobbler about it!

1796cc GTi Se · Post by **1796cc GTi Se** » Sun Jul 18, 2004 7:06 pm

Well he has been telling porkies then. :thumbdown:

two pack paint or 2K as its also known is a two part paint.

1. You have the paint

2. You have a hardener to make it dry.

You add them together and you get paint that drys, if you put the paint and hardener or lacquer and hardener in an aerosol it simply wouldnt come out because it would dry in the can.

So thats why you cant get 2K rattle cans and probably never will, all rattle cans are 1K (aka cellulose).

steve-o · Post by **steve-o** » Sun Jul 18, 2004 8:00 pm

Ahhh, I see, well I'm glad at least someone can respond in an adult manner!!!

You learn something new every day!

Can't say I've had any durability grief with rattle cans though! Only probs I've found is they take a few weeks to go off properly! Sometimes can mark if you're too eagar too soon with em!

Wonder why this guy says its 2 pac tho? I'll quiz him next time! As for all the other stuff, thats just the way I've found works, end of.....

Its funny how some peeps can respond to general individual opinion and personal findings!

Makes me laff!!! No need for that kind of response!

MGTurbo · Post by **MGTurbo** » Sun Jul 18, 2004 8:01 pm

steve-o wrote:Ahhh, I see, well I'm glad at least someone can respond in an adult manner!!! You learn something new every day!

Can't say I've had any durability grief with rattle cans though! Only probs I've found is they take a few weeks to go off properly! Sometimes can mark if you're too eagar too soon with em!

Wonder why this guy says its 2 pac tho? I'll quiz him next time! As for all the other stuff, thats just the way I've found works, end of.....

Its funny how some peeps can respond to general individual opinion and personal findings! Makes me laff!!! No need for that kind of response!

I had to clear up a number of points which were misleading to others. If you dont like the manner in which i responded then ignore me. That would be an adult thing to do .

As for the durability, i've been using all paint refinishing systems (except for water based) for nearly 10 years now. And 1-single pack air drying acrylic cannot compete with the toughness of 2-pack, end of.

steve-o · Post by **steve-o** » Sun Jul 18, 2004 9:50 pm

And I'm sorry if what I said was misleading, I honestly thought I was explaining quite clearly what I have found to work for me in the past???

I just didnt think there is any help for others with sarcastic remarks like

Ok you have obviously not used two-pack that much then?

as well as other comments and the general tone of the response! So what if we dont know it all, they're our experiences and hence advise to others! No need to get on your soap box for a childish response like that!!!

Anyway back to the main point, we're digressing, as for water based, I'm glad you mentioned this as when I had a bonnet resprayed in water based paint, that was the only time I have had a job done professionally that I thought was totally worth the money!

I found the finish on the water based job was absolutely amazing!!!

The paint was such a good finish, like glass, not the slightest ripple, the guy told me to take care of it for a while cos it takes longer to harden, but WOW!!! :wink:

What a finish! Much better than any other paint job I've ever had!

And thats my whole point, what is worth the money??? For small jobs like this, spoilers, mirrors etc, I recon you can get good results yourself without too much effort. Sure, use a compressor and air gun (different paint even!) if you can get access, but generally rattle cans can achieve just as good results on jobs like this and durability has never been an issue "to me" and IMO little jobs like this are best done yourself than getting ripped off and paying someone else 10 times as much to do for you! Thats all!!!

MGTurbo · Post by **MGTurbo** » Sun Jul 18, 2004 9:56 pm

steve-o wrote:I just didnt think there is any help for others with sarcastic remarks like

Ok you have obviously not used two-pack that much then?

as well as other comments and the general tone of the response! So what if we dont know it all, they're our experiences and hence advise to others! No need to get on your soap box for a childish response like that!!!

So i was right then? I made my point earlier. sorry if you do not like my sarcastic tone but thats just the way i am

steve-o · Post by **steve-o** » Sun Jul 18, 2004 10:00 pm

I was correct in my "immaturity" assumption as well it would seem? Like I said, you wanna take the tripe n onions, come knock on my door and do it.

MGTurbo · Post by **MGTurbo** » Sun Jul 18, 2004 10:08 pm

steve-o wrote:I was correct in my "immaturity" assumption as well it would seem? Like I said, you wanna take the tripe n onions, come knock on my door and do it.

Hmm no thanks. There's nothing i could tell you to your face that i havent already said here.

Back on topic please.

Steve220 · Post by **Steve220** » Sun Jul 18, 2004 10:10 pm

hopefully we'll try that on my gallery thread

MGTurbo · Post by **MGTurbo** » Sun Jul 18, 2004 10:11 pm

Steve220 wrote:hopefully we'll try that on my gallery thread

Ah yes nearly forgot that one, i'll be there in a sec

alexf2828 · Post by **alexf2828** » Sun Jul 18, 2004 10:12 pm

My advice to anyone wanting spraying doing is to take to bodyshop,there are so many things to know about spraying and u need a proper temp controlled booth to do it in too,plus u can get problems like paints reacting etc,its like anything,a nightmare if u havent got the proper knowledge and gear,spraying is an art as my mate says!

jay.dee · Post by **jay.dee** » Mon Jul 19, 2004 12:24 am

Was watching a while ago on Granada Men And Motors (wonderful channel eh?) and one of the programmes had a guy restoring cars on a budget. On an A reg Porsche, he pulled out a dent in the pillar behind the passenger door, rubbed the rust off, filled it in, masked the area off, then used a spray can on it! :?:

DOM_COUPE · Post by **DOM_COUPE** » Mon Jul 19, 2004 12:34 am

rattlers are ok (i suppose) for amll touch ups but you can't beat a proper spray for obvious reasons.

steve-o i dont know why you're takin offence at what he put i know where he's coming from what you said was technically incorrect and he jus corrected it. i spray also. also how are they ripping you off if they are doing a proper proffesional job of it. after a lot of practice decent results can be obtained by rattle cans but have you ever seen peoples 1st attempts they normally end up spending nearly as much on rattle cans and extra papers etc

back on topic a price of around Â£80 would be a decent estimate at a bodyshop around 100 fitted

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