Jobs not to do on a Ti....
Moderator: Forum Moderators
-
dreaddan
- RT GOD
- Posts: 5823
- Joined: Mon Jun 30, 2003 12:53 pm
- feedback: 1092668
- Location: A little north of Stoke-On-Trent
- Contact:
Jobs not to do on a Ti....
.. Well I though we might as well start a list of jobs thats' a complete pain in the donkey boy and not worth doing your self.
Bleed the clutch (on my second day trying to get it done)
Change frount break disks
Bleed the clutch (on my second day trying to get it done)
Change frount break disks

This post may be the result of ale...
02 Ford Mondeo 2.0 TDCi Ghia X 130ps
95 Toyota Celica SS-I JDM
-
retro620ti
- Rovertech Veteran
- Posts: 617
- Joined: Fri Nov 28, 2003 3:23 pm
- Location: Too freakin far away in Cornwall
I don't think the bearings need to be removed do they?
I thought you could just whack the bolts at the back with a sledge or summat until the hub splits in half.
Two broken fingers and a couple of skimmed knuckles later.....Voila!
I thought you could just whack the bolts at the back with a sledge or summat until the hub splits in half.
Two broken fingers and a couple of skimmed knuckles later.....Voila!

216 Coupe..Gone but not forgotton
'02 Fiesta Zetec-S (Sold)
306 GTI-6 - 140BHP A.T.W @7100RPM
(173 BHP @The Fly for pub talk)
-
Fordimus Prime
- Rovertech Moderator

- Posts: 2783
- Joined: Tue May 04, 2004 6:58 pm
- feedback: 332911
- Location: middlesex
- Contact:
Sorry, i know this is a complete thread hijack, but just read the bit about discs and splitting hubs.
would anyone be able to give me a quick run through on how to splt the hub and change discs etc?
At the moment i have a driveshaft stuck in a hub, that even a 10 ton press at local garage couldnt free, so im hoping to get a new hub then swap over disc and abs sensor, then fit new driveshaft and put it all back together.
But, being a simple lad, id imagined you could just unbolt disc or something.
would anyone be able to give me a quick run through on how to splt the hub and change discs etc?
At the moment i have a driveshaft stuck in a hub, that even a 10 ton press at local garage couldnt free, so im hoping to get a new hub then swap over disc and abs sensor, then fit new driveshaft and put it all back together.
But, being a simple lad, id imagined you could just unbolt disc or something.
- MG ZR td+ -
Fordimus Prime wrote:Sorry, i know this is a complete thread hijack, but just read the bit about discs and splitting hubs.
would anyone be able to give me a quick run through on how to splt the hub and change discs etc?
At the moment i have a driveshaft stuck in a hub, that even a 10 ton press at local garage couldnt free, so im hoping to get a new hub then swap over disc and abs sensor, then fit new driveshaft and put it all back together.
But, being a simple lad, id imagined you could just unbolt disc or something.
What are you trying to do then? I've got a CV joint stuck in a hub. I just left it stuck. You can work around it.
1999 Honda Accord Type R - 2157cc of VTEC 4dr fun 
2011 Mazda 6 Sport 2.2 Diesel - For the days I want torque and economy
2011 Mazda 6 Sport 2.2 Diesel - For the days I want torque and economy
-
retro620ti
- Rovertech Veteran
- Posts: 617
- Joined: Fri Nov 28, 2003 3:23 pm
- Location: Too freakin far away in Cornwall
ok dont blame me if you swear continuosly for a day if u do this and this is on a 620 ti
1 , remove knuckle and hub in 1 go
2, remove whole hub unit from knuckle
3 , as was said use the four bolts holding the hub unit as 1 piece to ease ( i did say ease ) the hub apart use a hide faced mallet to hit the bolts when you have loosened em to move the hub and flange apart...be v carefull ( do you really want to strip the thread on these bolts)
4, et viola
5, if it goes this easy then you are a smug barsteward and dont deserve the good fortune you have just been gifted with.
and yes i did swear for a day after doing this as i couldnt believe they did that to the damn hubs and disks
1 , remove knuckle and hub in 1 go
2, remove whole hub unit from knuckle
3 , as was said use the four bolts holding the hub unit as 1 piece to ease ( i did say ease ) the hub apart use a hide faced mallet to hit the bolts when you have loosened em to move the hub and flange apart...be v carefull ( do you really want to strip the thread on these bolts)
4, et viola
5, if it goes this easy then you are a smug barsteward and dont deserve the good fortune you have just been gifted with.
and yes i did swear for a day after doing this as i couldnt believe they did that to the damn hubs and disks
How expensive are those spares ......you must be joking this is a ROVER you know
-
george_chick
- RT GOD
- Posts: 7357
- Joined: Wed Apr 23, 2003 2:40 pm
- feedback: 1052427
- Location: SW London UK
Bleeding clutch on a Ti doesn't have to be a pain.
Should have asked before you started or had a search about.
http://www.rt2468abcd.r8technology.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=5238
Including cleaning up the slave cylinder, fitter seals etc in and out in half an hour, pump the pedal a couple of times to get the vac bleeder started.
Fluid leaking out while the cylinder's off leaves a load of air in the hose end.
or
http://www.rt2468abcd.r8technology.co.uk/viewtopi ... apid+bleed
Should have asked before you started or had a search about.
http://www.rt2468abcd.r8technology.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=5238
Including cleaning up the slave cylinder, fitter seals etc in and out in half an hour, pump the pedal a couple of times to get the vac bleeder started.
Fluid leaking out while the cylinder's off leaves a load of air in the hose end.
or
http://www.rt2468abcd.r8technology.co.uk/viewtopi ... apid+bleed
=====
George.
MK II Sterling Fastback in Gold with rust highlights on LPG (hells teeth the seat heater certainly works)
Ohh that was a long time ago, that's girders in China now...
George.
MK II Sterling Fastback in Gold with rust highlights on LPG (hells teeth the seat heater certainly works)
Ohh that was a long time ago, that's girders in China now...
-
george_chick
- RT GOD
- Posts: 7357
- Joined: Wed Apr 23, 2003 2:40 pm
- feedback: 1052427
- Location: SW London UK
Craig wrote:Bloody hell! I hope it's not the same for the Vitesse!![]()
What a pain.
As long as the caliper carrier bolts come off the hub OK, thats an easy job.
Copper grease those and they won't rust solid and require the flame axe to shift them.
Clean old dust n muck off shims and carriers, copper grease everything in sight, moly/CV grease on the sliding pins.
Lunchtime job in the carpark at work.
Browse your SuperCD or EPC, thats what all those exploded diagrams are for

=====
George.
MK II Sterling Fastback in Gold with rust highlights on LPG (hells teeth the seat heater certainly works)
Ohh that was a long time ago, that's girders in China now...
George.
MK II Sterling Fastback in Gold with rust highlights on LPG (hells teeth the seat heater certainly works)
Ohh that was a long time ago, that's girders in China now...
I found the best way to do discs was to split all 3 ball joints,undo abs reluctor and associated bolts and completely remove front leg from car,then loosen the 4 disc retaining bolts,place between two planks of wood and belt hub bearing apart with suitable socket on back of splined bit,I found no matter how hard I hit the 4 hub carrier bolts I could not get the hub to separate from the leg this way.The bearings also seem to tap back together ok just watch grease seals,I didnt replace either bearing and they are running fine