ttrw2 2/400 Brembo Big Brake Kit

[C2K]

Guys you need threadlock, not lube.

[MarkCoupe]

Looks awesome, i wish id had the money

[C2K]

A couple of people have asked Rob and myself about future availability of these kits. We would like to re-assure people that the kits will be available in the future, and there is no problem sourcing the parts. However, the purpose of the GB was to achieve a lower price for everyone by buying in bulk, enabling us to pass on savings gained from the extra buying power. As a result, the kits will be a little more expensive after the GB albeit with a shorter lead time than the initial kits.

If there is sufficient interest in the future, we could potentially hold another GB, but at this stage i've not received enough enquiries to make that feasible at this point in time.

Hope that clears things up.

[220Lee]

I'm after some pads (just been paid ), anyone got any recommendations also what did rob use in his original build?

[ttrw2]

Super-swift reply (online):

I bunged in EBC black-stuff at first just to get me going. They were about £35 posted. They're shite.

I'm now running DS2500's but going upto DS3000's for summer trackdays. Best prices for those were camskill. Ferodo part number for DS2500 is FCP1348H.

Cheers
Rob

[220Lee]

Thanks for the qiuck reply,

I've just checked out the DS2500 pads on their site and mentions that they don't recommend these for road use! I was looking at greenstuff pads as i used them on my old vvc and they worked very well, currently using redstuff on my turbo but don't live up to the hype, their ok just not as good as i was expecting.

What are the DS2500's like to live with day-to-day, i take it you use yours on the road not just the track. i'm after a pad that works well from cold and no screeching as some compounds do.
Any help well be appreciated.

Cheers
Lee

[C2K]

Rob got the DS2500's because he'd tried them in my car with no noise and no issues. For a day to day pad they're fine, maybe a little card-like on the first use but there's plenty brake effort to stop the car.

HTH.

[220Lee]

Thanks for for your advice simon and rob, helps when making a decision if some one else has tried it before

[ttrw2]

Thanks for the qiuck reply,

I've just checked out the DS2500 pads on their site and mentions that they don't recommend these for road use! I was looking at greenstuff pads as i used them on my old vvc and they worked very well, currently using redstuff on my turbo but don't live up to the hype, their ok just not as good as i was expecting.

What are the DS2500's like to live with day-to-day, i take it you use yours on the road not just the track. i'm after a pad that works well from cold and no screeching as some compounds do.
Any help well be appreciated.

Cheers
Lee

Greentufts would be perfectly okay for road use only IMO.

Cheers
Rob

[Drew]

i am quite lazy so instead of me taking my wheel off again, any chance you could measure the studs you have in that hub and give us an idea of what length im going to need for my std zs wheels to fit with appropriate spacers.

cheers
Drew

[ttrw2]

Yes, no problems.

I'm pretty sure PeteT16 posted somewhere about some parts-bin-special longer studs he found (metro?)....I'll try to find the post....

Cheers
Rob


EDIT: Subject: 6mm Hubcentric wheel spacers

I'll still measure-up and confirm for you though.

[Drew]

excellent, cheers for that.

Drew

[ttrw2]

There's 31mm of stud protruding from the hub, and the ZS hub is 8.5mm thick.

I reckon plus10mm studs should do it - 6mm to cater for the spacer you'll need to run your ZS 11-spokes over the setup, leaving us 4mm for the shims behind the disc. If you want to play it very safe you could go plus15mm, and get lots more thread engagement.

I'll do you the DXF tmw Drew.

Cheers

Rob

[peteT16]

Just a small update, Rover 100 studs were a bust, the splined section is too larger diameter.

ARP Honda Civic studs do the job perfectly, but will need cutting down as they are 65mm as supplied, I took them down to 45mm.

[ttrw2]

Following Mitus' link to the ARPs on his thread; they seem exceptionally dear!

Do any of the Rally Design studs do the trick Pete?

http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/index.php?cPath=731_735

[Drew]

how about grayston engineering?

Drew

[wettieboi]

Is there anychance you guys will be doing another group buy ? Wasnt on here when you did this one

[C2K]

Is there anychance you guys will be doing another group buy ? Wasnt on here when you did this one

Potentially, after this one. There is quite a few parties who wanted to join in, so we can always put a feeler out when this one is done and dusted.

As an aside...



Brackets at back at casa de pieman all coated up.

[peteT16]

I looked at the Rally Design studs before, but none are suitable as MGR seem to have gone with a small diameter on the splined section of the stud fitted to R8, ZR, and ZS - 12.1mm, and all the Ford, Toyota, Mitsu
lengthened studs are 13mm and bigger.
One option would be to get the stud holes opened up to suit a bigger range of studs.

However having done this mod on my ZS, I discovered that pressing out the front hub foxes the bearing, and also involves replacing the front hub because half the inner bearing race comes out with the hub and the two are inseperable without trashing one or the other of them, so my experience suggesta that anyone needing to run spacers should wait until they recieve the kit then do a trial fit to see how many turns the wheel nut goes on, 6 and more turns will be fine, so no need for extended studs.

As a rough guide, the standard stud is 37mm long, if you subtract 6mm for the hub, another 6 for the spacer, 6 for the disc, and 6 for the wheel, that leaves 13mm which is 8 turns with a 1.5mm thread pitch.

[Berger]

Are these not what you need?

http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/arp- ... l7duejc8v2

[peteT16]

Are these not what you need?

http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/arp- ... l7duejc8v2

Yep, they're the ones I used

[ttrw2]

Stainless Brembo banjo's are here



Only bolts to go!

Cheers
Rob

[< KEVIN >]

how long we taking before white van man knocks my door ?

[C2K]

Should be within a week for the first kits (R8) to go out or be able to be collected, providing the bolt suppliers meet their word. Banjos look sweet.

It's a pain for timing but i've been sent overseas again at extremely short notice so Rob ( !) is in custody of all the parts so as not to cause delay. I am in fact writing this with my feet up in sunny Australia having just been hooning my rental - a Falcon XR6.

Lee, your kit should be available with me in Rugby towards the end of the month when i'm back. Alternatively, feel free to contact Rob about collection from Peterborough if you feel you want them faster.

[220Lee]

Lee, your kit should be available with me in Rugby towards the end of the month when i'm back. Alternatively, feel free to contact Rob about collection from Peterborough if you feel you want them faster.

Yeah not a problem, I can wait a couple more weeks.
Try not to work to hard over there

[ttrw2]

Bolt's have arrived!

128 H.T. M12 fine all the way from Holland just for us!



I expect the spring-washers tomorrow, then that's it. All systems go for couriering early next week.

Rob

[< KEVIN >]

Sweet

Good Work !

[tompinney]

Rob, is there likely to be galvanic corrosion issue between the alloy caliper and the stainless banjo, or am I worrying about nothing?

I only query it becuase it always gets mentioned at work in reviews when we design chasses for our electronics. I'm not a mechanical/materials engineer so I don't know what's a good/bad combination from a galvanic corrosion point of view.

[ttrw2]

Good question. Theoretically, yes it is a risk as stainless steel and aluminium are quite widely seperated on the galvanic series, but in reality it isn't an issue as the anodic (less noble) material (ally) is in far greater quantities than the cathodic (more noble) material (stainless).

E.G. A lot of aluminium structures are fastened together with stainless fixings, but you wouldn't fasten a stainless structure with ally fixings. On the Banjo bolt there's not a lot of surface area contact other than the threads; there's a brake union and some copper crush washers under the banjo bolt head.

Plus these banjo bolts are from Brembo for use in their ally calipers, so designed for this application.

Kosha reply?
Rob

[tompinney]

If you say its fine and its backed up by Brembo, then thats good enough for me

[Null_Byte]

What rob said, Stainless is more noble than mild steel anyway and the copper washers will help too.

[ttrw2]

Sunday morning assembly/packing line in the living-room!



It may look simple on the outside, but the logistics are a nightmare! Especially when you have a hang-over!

I'll update you later when I know courier details.

Cheers
Rob

[ttrw2]

Example of a kit packed - brackets are assembled with bolts, spacers and spring-washers on in-order ready to bolt on. Banjo bolts with their copper washers are in a little component bag.

Both brackets and the banjo-bag are in one of the disc boxes.

There's also a destruction sheet to go in each kit, with an assembly guide, lots of pics and torque-settings. I'll post these up in a thread too for reference.

Cheers
Rob

[C2K]

[Null_Byte]

Looks sweet!